Delicious dishes from Cajamarca

Cajamarca has an ancient gastronomic history. Old pots and spoons, delicately decorated and exhibited in museums, are silent witnesses of those exquisite delicacies. It is known what PreHispanic people used to produce and what they possibly consumed; however, nothing is known about the way they prepared or ate their food. There is not even a description of the last meals of the Inca Atahualpa, who was captured and then executed in the current capital of the department.

Written by: Rosario Olivas Weston
Historian of the Peruvian Gastronomy
Translation: Euroidiomas, Lima - Perú 

The "caldo verde" (green broth) is the first dish to describe. It would be hasty to say that its origin is prehispanic because its ingredients were brought by Spaniards: parsley, rue, egg, and cheese. The only Andean ingredients are the paico (chenopodium ambrosioides) and the potato. Peasants also prepared this dish with hierbabuena or Peruvian mint and a wild herb called chamka. A similar dish has not been found in Spain. Perhaps its real origin is medicinal; a tonic based on herbs, which is drunk very early in the morning, before daily work or after a lively celebration.

It is very easy to prepare this dish. Cook potatoes in abundant boiling water, then add one or two eggs very slowly and some salt. When serving, add many tablespoons of ground herbs and small pieces of fresh cheese. Many Peruvian families put these herbs into small bowls so, when eating, each member can season the dish to taste. It is mostly served with mashca (toasted and ground barley flour.)

In Cajamarca the humitas are eaten as starters at lunchtime or at any time of the day with a delicious cup of coffee made from recently ground coffee beans. The humitas are made from ground fresh corn, pork fat, and minced garlic. They are stuffed with greasy cheese and a little of palillo (curcuma) to give them an attractive flavor and a yellowish color.

The 'Chicharrón con mote' is another popular starter. The pieces of pork are seasoned with garlic and salt and cooked in little water until all liquid has evaporated. The meat starts then to cook and completely brown in its own fat. It is served with a variety of Andean corn called mote and a sauce made of onions and chili. According to custom, after eating this dish people have to drink a small cup of eau-de-vie.

Since ancient times, guinea pig meat has been very appreciated in Peru. It is mainly eaten in parties and celebrations. Nowadays, every department of the country has its own way to cook and present the dish. The Cajamarca style guinea pig is well fried, with crunched skin, and only seasoned with salt and a few minced cloves of garlic. It is mainly served with picante de papas (potato spicy stew), arroz de trigo (rice of wheat), and a sauce prepared with eggplants and chilies minced with a batán (a big round stone.)

To get a delicious 'potato spicy stew' fry garlic and chili in the same oil where the guinea pig was cooked. Then add peeled and chopped yellow Peruvian potatoes, some water, and let it thicken. To prepare the 'rice of wheat' follow the same steps as if you were preparing rice; that is how it got its curious name. 

The gastronomic identity of Cajamarca is strongly linked to its production, landscape, and history. It is also an expression of its culture because we all take part of it and unconsciously internalize it. On one occasion, the outstanding anthropologist from Cajamarca Fernando Silva Santisteban stated that when he ate a 'chupe verde' he felt he "was eating his childhood"; in other words, all the indelible memories of his childhood suddenly came to mind. 

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