The diversity of landscapes and archaeological remains on the Ancash coast is as surprising as it is little-known. A journey of just a few hours leads the traveller to experience radical changes of climate, forms of speech and cultures. This is an almost magical trip. Discover with us the beaches and unexpected traditions of this prodigious land, with its historic sites that will almost certainly draw the attention of scholars in the coming years.

Text: Ivan Reyna Ramos
Photos: Juan Puelles Urraca

Perhaps it was the cold air that filtered in from the bus window, or the disfigured profile of the hills, but for some strange reason I could feel that I was approaching Casma. The appointment with Carlos Bastiand was at Kilometre 347 of the northbound Pan-American Highway, were he would be waiting for us with the four-wheel drive vehicle that would take us along the undeservedly little-known Ancash coast. First we headed south, to Gramita, an open, white, sandy beach perfect for camping. For those looking for more comfort, just a few metres from the beach there is the Las Aldas guesthouse, ideal for a quiet rest with a view of the Pacific.

Heart of Sand
Leaving behind the Pan-American Highway, we followed the coast north along an asphalted road. Bordered by sand dunes the road took us as far as Las Mellizas, a pair of stony beaches linked by a hill of sand. Up there one felt that one could kiss the sun. It was simply fascinating. Adjacent to this beach and facing the sea are the oldest remains of fishing and gathering communities in the Americas, belonging to the five thousand year-old Las Aldas archaeological complex. We continued on our way through those virgin beaches (a figure of speech, of course, because even in the nunneries there are no virgins), and heading north we sighted beaches that the fishermen have named: Pedregal, Hueso de Ballena, Catalina, Playa Mansa, El Muerto, Los Litros, Lobos, El Guanito, Piedra Gorda, El Bajadon, La Red, La Cruz and El Ciño: A rosary of sandy spaces, waves and a unique beauty unknown to those who come from Lima and think that the north is just the beaches of Mancora and Huanchaco.

Suddenly we found ourselves facing Punta El Huaro, situated at the foot of Mongon Hill and an enormous antenna used by travellers as a landmark. El Huaro is an isthmus, a small tongue of land linking the peninsula with the continent. When the tide is high El Huaro becomes an island, a marvel not repeated anywhere else on the Peruvian coast. The colonies of seals, dolphins and flocks of birds make this a really special place.

Sacred Land
Of course, we also visited Sechin, just a stone's throw from Casma, and magically wrapped in a forest of carob trees. If this were Europe, this place would be promoted as a great wonder on a par with Stonehenge. More respect is surely due to this 3500 year-old temple with its 400 enormous stones, finely-carved, which speak of bloody deeds through sublime and allegorical art - but let us not frighten away the Europeans, whose continent, after all, is not renowned either for its peace and harmony.

Later, at Kilometre 14 of the road to Huaraz, at Pampa Colorada, we came upon the a 23 metre-high warrior carved into the desert, holding a circular object in his left hand and a staff in his right, whilst a feline figure rises up behind him, opening its claws menacingly. This site also features a series of lines and figures that have been compared to the Nazca Lines, and Victor Lopez Velasquez, a scholar from Casma, has shown that these lines are perfectly aligned with the winter solstice.

That night we stayed at the Tortugas resort, and at dawn we left by boat for Charay, in the company of our boatmen Juan Rivera and Jaime Herrera, leaving behind the fishing boats and the many shellfish farms. In this way we reached two fairytale beaches: La Gramita de Arena and La Gramita de Piedra, separated by a red hill. Both beaches are good for bathing, camping and fishing. In the distance Tortuga Island can be seen. Later we disembarked at San Bernadino beach, and it was like going back to a prehistoric past. 

Past and Present Glory
It was now time to head inland in search of the dwelling places of our ancestors. The Nepeña valley awaited us at Kilometre 409 of the northbound Pan-American Highway. We visited the fortress of Pañamarca, built by the Moche invaders of this region on a granite mountain in the third century after Christ and sacked in the colonial period by treasure seekers. Today it is surrounded by vegetation and ancient carob trees and large numbers of lizards scuttle across the landscape.

Continuing east, we arrived in the district of Moro, known for its wines and piscos still made in ancient presses and proudly celebrated by local connoisseurs in the last week of July during Pisco Day. In Motocache the wineries dazzle. And for those in search of food, El Ranchito prepares irresistible dishes: guinea pig with potatoes, duck cebiche and duck and chilli stew. But it was neither the pisco nor the cebiche that most impressed us: it was meeting Antonio Huerta, 113 years-old, riding his horse through the smallholdings of Choloque. He was a blessed presence, moving, and also a real talker.

On this same route one comes across the Huaca Partida, the most recent discovery made by the Japanese archaeologist Koichiro Shibata (and previously excavated by Julio C. Tello in 1930) in the vicinity of the cane fields belonging to Agroindustrias San Jacinto. This unprecedented find confirms the early influence of Chavin in this part of the coast. Without a doubt, the most eye-catching find at the site is the fierce image of a feline form shaped from mud clay and belonging to the formative period.

Returning to the Casma valley, we had a look at the remains of Punkuri, the oldest known sanctuary of the Sechin culture, where the inhabitants worshipped a multi-coloured clay puma discovered by Julio C. Tello in 1929 - a deity some four thousand years old.

Finally, we went back down to the sea, to Isla Blanca, in the El Ferrol bay in Chimbote, once the most beautiful island in all Peru, before the anchovy industry was established. Even today, the island can still boast abundant marine fauna, a phantasmagorical petrified forest and excellent vantage points. There are nine coves to enchant travellers with their waves, rock formations and absolute isolation. Without a doubt, as a travel destination this northern coast of Ancash is set to have a promising future.

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