One of the main arteries of that network of rivers, lakes and forests which is Pacaya Samiria is the Yanayacu river basin. RUMBOS journeyed for five days (*) through this territory with its unique diversity of fauna and flora. Our destination was Lake El Dorado, the refuge of "the king of fresh water fish": the paiche (Arapaima gigas). Along the way we were able to observe how the communities on the Yanayacu River live in harmony with nature and at the same time improve their lives through responsible tourism.

Text: Anja Köder
Fhotos: Carlos Sala Otero

We jumped into the water and suddenly felt something brushing against our skin. At first we thought that some kind of lake algae was touching our arms and legs, but we soon realised that we were surrounded by small fish that were nibbling us all over. Our faces reflected our surprise and discomfort. However, those submarine bites proved inoffensive: almost like a rather special massage. We were very surprised to see the fishermen who accompanied us take some orange-coloured fish with sharp little teeth out of the water. "They are piranha", they told us casually. We quickly climbed back into the boat that had brought us to Lake El Dorado, in the heart of Pacaya Samiria. 

Heading for the Reserve
After leaving behind the belt of cloud that covers Lima, we crossed the Andes and after just over an hour we landed in Iquitos. We could feel the heat hit us as soon as we reached the steps of the aircraft. Soon we were in Nauta, on the Marañón River, almost at the confluence with the Ucayali which creates the Amazon itself, the most colossal river on the planet. 

We toured Nauta with María Elena Lau, tourism coordinator of ProNaturaleza. We visited Lake Sapi Sapi. We visited Lake Sapi Sapi, where we observed a number of typical species, such as the taricaya turtle (Podocnemis unifilis) and the arawana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum), an ornamental fish, the male of which incubates its young in its mouth. It was there that we had our first encounter with the paiche, when, for just an instant, we spotted one as it emerged from the water to eat the bread we had thrown in. 

The sun burned in the sky. With a sense of expectation we boarded the boat and set off in the company of Omer Guerra, our guide from the village of Veinte de Enero. We would travel first along the Marañón, and then along its tributary, the Yanayacu. 

Of River Dwellers and Fabled Creatures
Great trunks seemed to greet us from the water (at night they resemble fabulous creatures). These trunks appear because of the rains, when the river level rises and large areas of forest are flooded. These tropical forests are known as floodable forests. 

Omer spoke to us of the pink and grey dolphins. According to legend, these animals can take human form and possess divine powers. As he spoke to us he skilfully carved a boa from a palm seed. The communities of Pacaya Samiria are specialists in this type of craft and sell their wares in the markets of Nauta and Iquitos. 

It was almost three in the afternoon when we reached the INRENA control point, where we registered. Only those travellers with permits emitted in Iquitos are able to enter the reserve. However, this measure does not seem to have reined in the greed of the loggers. 

The Voice of Nature
Minutes later we arrived at the entrance to Pacaya Samiria: the village of Veinte de Enero (named after the date of its foundation in 1967). These villagers were the first to employ a measured approach to the exploitation of the moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa), and they have taught other communities to work in a less environmentally damaging manner. 

We were welcomed in the village and were later able to observe the method employed for climbing the palm trees. Equipped with ropes and two triangular pieces of wood, Omer began to climb the palm. He first used the rope to fix the triangles at different heights on the trunk and then, using his arms and feet, he climbed until he reached the top of the tree, where he harvested its fruit with a machete.

After this impressive demonstration we enjoyed a delicious lunch prepared by the women of the village. At around eight in the evening we took a nocturnal excursion by boat. Our flashlights allowed us to distinguish the dolphins as they surfaced, while the dark river reflected the starry sky. At the same time we listened attentively to the many sounds that together formed one voice: the voice of nature.

Golden Destiny
Early the next morning we continued our journey upriver towards Yarina, accompanied by butterflies and camungos (Anhima cornuta). At midday we arrived at the village of Yarina and were cordially met by the villagers. We explored the village, which lives from fishing and enhances its income through the sale of handicrafts. During our visit, a small agouti (Agouti paca), barely three months old, which was playing with a group of children, ran to meet us. This charming mammal is nocturnal, and it squinted constantly in the daylight. 

Continuing our journey, we spent the night at the Tambo Germán lodge, where we erected our tents quickly and went out again in search of the river's fauna. Using our flashlights, we saw the red eyes of the caiman. Toni, our new guide from the village of Yarina, even captured a young caiman in order to show us how beautiful this species is. 

At nightfall the following day, after a long day's travelling, we reached our destination: Lake El Dorado, which is part of the territory of the people of the village of Yacu Tayta. On the way we heard the cries of mantled howler monkeys and had the opportunity to see a taricaya turtle laying its eggs in a sandbank.

Freedom Festival
Marielena and Toni explained how the villagers collect the turtles' eggs and then place them in artificial beaches. When transferring the eggs it is very important to keep them in the exact position in which they were found. If this is not done the embryo may be affected. This practice was begun in the 1980s by the Peruvian-Finnish naturalist Pekka Soini (who died recently), when experts estimated that only 500 reproductive females were left in Pacaya Samiria. 

Both the eggs and meat of the turtles are highly-prized, and as the human population in the area grew, turtle numbers declined alarmingly. The reserve's management responded by establishing an annual conservation quota. The results of this program can now be seen: today excess eggs are used for local consumption. Villagers celebrate the birth of the turtles with a "Freedom Festival". 

Paiche's Glance
During that long day we passed the control points of Canto Gallo and Huarma Island. We were accompanied by Enrique Silvano, one of the Yacu Tayta, or guardians, of this little paradise. All of the Yacu Tayta ("father of the waters") are from the community of Manco Capac and take care of the lake devotedly. After a delicious breakfast and a brief stop, we explored Lake El Dorado for the first time. Toni and Enrique told us the legend of two islands that move constantly. It is said that they are two anacondas that represent the water mother and her spouse. 

A sunset that transformed the sky from blue to an intense red informed us it was time to turn-in for the night. The following morning we would get up early to finally achieve the objective of our expedition: to see the paiche. Like the turtle, this species is also specially protected. To ensure its survival, the villagers of Manco Capac have developed special fishing methods. One of their techniques is the use of large nets that capture fish larger than 1.80 metres in length which have already had a chance to breed. 

We arrived just as the fishermen had cast their circular net and were waiting for a fish to show itself. After twenty minutes a paiche breached to take in air. Immediately the net was drawn in and the immense creature was brought alongside the boat. This is the most difficult part of the operation, as the fish uses every ounce of its strength to try to escape from the net. Nevertheless, the fishermen's skill prevailed and we were eventually able to contemplate the enormous animal flailing in the bottom of the canoe. 

Without pausing, we took several photos before sending the fish back into the water. It seemed to glance at us contentedly as it was reintroduced into its element. Quickly, the fish disappeared, and a part of us went with it. 

<< Back