RUMBOS and Grupo Tititrek joined forces to open a new trekking route between the Mala Valley and Yauyos, linking the villages of Ayavirí and Miraflores via a four-day trek beneath mountains and sky in the always-surprising Lima highlands.

Text and Photos: Victor Villanueva (*)

When I think of Rosario Sedano - of Charo - I swear I can't believe it - particularly now, as the light slips off its velvet soul on our first night out of Lima the Terrible. But what can we do, Charo, it is our city… And your life was walking, with that bullet-proof adventurous spirit of yours. You accompanied us on many of the routes we will describe in the second part of this article, but we would have given anything for you to have accompanied us on this excursion. I don't think I need to say that these words are dedicated to your memory. 

Heading South
The group of five walkers left Lima early in a comfortable van, south along the Pan-American Highway, stopping off in Asia for breakfast. Then, at Kilometre 102 of the highway, they changed direction and headed northwest. They passed arid places like Coayllo and Uquira before reaching Omas, where they had lunch. Vegetation began to appear in San Pedro de Pilas. Here, the vehicle began to "suffer certain imperfections" and "was finished", the passengers were told. Luckily, that night a bus bound for Ayavirí would pass - a name that conjures reminiscences of Puno. 

Ayavirí is one of the thirty-three districts of Yauyos; however, its valley is not situated in the river basin of the Cañete, but rather in that of the Mala River. This picturesque town surrounded by hills and fields stands at an altitude of 3,235 metres. Max Espinoza Galarza, in his book "Quechua Names of Peru", writes that the name comes from "aya" (corpse) and "huiri" (burial shroud). In a word: "Embalmers". In the battle of Ayavirí in 1537 one of Manco Inca's captains, Allin Songo Inca (he had taken part in the siege of Lima), was killed.

After crossing the Tres Cruces Pass (at 3,745 metres above sea level), the group saw in the distance - in the darkness - the white of a mountain on the slopes of which lay Ayavirí. They finally reached their destination at eleven that night. They were recommended a hostel… the only one in town. 

Andean Constellation
The next day, after a sumptuous breakfast in the market, they set off on their expedition with their packs on their backs, and their passing did not go unnoticed by the villagers: adults and children regarded them quizzically, for it was strange to see a group of people heading into the mountains for pleasure. They just couldn't believe their eyes. 

The first kilometres were a continuous climb to the small plain of "Cullpamarca (3,500 m), from where there is an excellent almost 360 degree view including much of that day's route. In the outskirts of Ayavirí there are archaeological remains: Chungamarca, Ullaraca, Antayalla and Cullpamarca. At this last site the group rested and contemplated the surrounding countryside. It was a good day for walking: the sky was clear and the sun not too strong. 

Less than half a kilometre later, the hikers spotted the summit of Mount Llongote and came upon a fork in the trail. They took the trail to the left towards the left bank of theAyavirí River (which is a tributary of the Mala). They crossed low passes, some of them well-watered, and they were able to calm their thirst. After several hours, they reached a place known as Puculluy, at 3,700 metres. As it was late, they decided to camp near a cabin, sheltered by a rocky outcrop. The night, clear and dimly-lit by the moon, seduced the team members. One of them, an amateur astronomer, gave a wonderful talk on the stars and constellations, with the others listening keenly until they were lulled into sleep. 

Close to the Heavens
The third day brought the group the surprising appearance of Carlos, a child from the Cachi area who would be their guest of honour that morning for breakfast: porridge, juice, bread and scrambled eggs with sausage. 

Just a few metres after beginning that day's walk the group left the main trail, which leads to Yauyos, to follow the course of the irrigation channel. As they advanced, grassland began to dominate the landscape. They passed close by shepherds' smallholdings, at 3,800 metres, and were warned that there were pumas in the mountains. It was then that they had their first view of Mount Ticlla. The trail narrowed and the walkers were forced to negotiate rocks blocking the route. Farther along the trail they reached a small dam designed to divert the river and irrigate fields.

At 3,900 metres, the impressive Pilkachaca Falls are boxed into a fissure in the hillside. As the afternoon turned to evening the walkers increased their pace in order to arrive before nightfall. They aimed to reach Lake Huascacocha, flanked by the imposing peaks of Ticlla (5,897 m.), Llongote (5,780 m.) and Huaynacutuni. In the shadow of the hills, with the wind increasing, the temperature dropped considerably, but the presence of "huashuas" (or Andean geese) lifted the hikers' spirits. At 6:15 pm, with darkness falling, they reached the foot of Lake Huascacocha (4,300 metres), and found a flat area near a stream to camp. Repeating his performance of the previous night, after a good meal our "astronomer" gave another lecture on the stars. Ticlla was closer now, as were the heavens.

The Spirit of Charito
This would be the final day of walking, but also the longest and toughest. They breakfasted very early, and before nine o' clock had their packs on their backs. They hiked around the eastern shore of the lake and soon passed a man coming from the village of Carania. His name was Pablo Ramos, and he gave the group directions and advice. The view of Ticlla was perfectly beautiful. However, there was little time to contemplate the view, for they had to cross the pass. Finally, in the early afternoon, the first walker reached the Portachuelo Pass (4,750 metres) and, while he waited for the rest of the group, enjoyed the unexpected sight above his head: seven condors circling just ten metres away. He could not believe it… Not even at Colca had he witnessed such a spectacle. 

He spent some fifteen minutes in the company of the condors, but the memory would last a lifetime. Inevitably, the free spirit of Charito Sedano was evoked (as if it had been only yesterday when they crossed the Portochuelo Pass near Pariakaka). The group rested at the top of the pass, but one kilometre farther down the trail a female member of the team began to suffer from swollen knees and the pace was slowed: all quite understandable after some 42 magical kilometres of trekking. 

The trekkers decided to head as quickly as possible for Miraflores to hire a horse. They were fortunate (or perhaps Charo's spirit was with them), for almost immediately they came across a shepherd, Oscar, at a place called Bañadero. Oscar lives there with his small son Roger, and together they take care of the livestock belonging to a woman from Miraflores. On being told the situation and being asked for help, the shepherd rented the expedition a couple of horses: "Picaflor" and "Vicuña". The group set off again, and on the descent observed a number of charming vizcachas hiding among the rocks. Night fell and seemed to make the trail longer. Finally, amid the shadows of highland vegetation and surrounded by the aromas of the fields, the team entered the village of Miraflores at 9:15 pm, and were met by the barking of invisible dogs.

(*) Information: perutiti@yahoo.com / excursionismo@tititrek.com / Fone: 2230806 - 98838936 / www.tititrek.com 

Alternative Routes

Other recommended walks in the province of Yauyos.

ROUTE ONE
Huancaya - Vilca (2 or 3 days)

This is one of the most beautiful zones of the entire North Yauyos Cochas Reserve. The total distance (there and back) is approximately 38 kilometres and altitudes in excess of 4,000 metres are reached. Practically the entire walk follows a road linking the two villages. There is good camping at the halfway point between the Huarimarca and Huascacocha lakes. The beautiful upper part of Vilca should not be missed: lovely waterfalls beneath Cantagallo Hill and the spectacular Lake Papacocha.

ROUTE TWO
Carania - Yauyos (2 days)

The ascent to Carania is spectacular. A winding trail, always uphill, of approximately 21 kilometres took the walkers away from the Cañete River (at Llapay) and led them to Carania amid idyllic scenery. From Carania to Yauyos there is a 24 kilometres hiking trail. Walkers pass the semi-circular agricultural terraces of Carhua and the archaeological remains of Huamanmarca, where the mummies now displayed in Carania were discovered. The campsite is in the Maizal valley. The second day's route passes through the upper part of Achín and near a beautiful waterfall. This trek is recommended for those who enjoy an adrenalin rush, as part of the route passes above an abyss.

Puente Cochas -- Escalerayoc - Pariakaka - Tanta (3 a 4 días / days)


ROUTE THREE
Puente Cochas -- Escalerayoc - Pariakaka - Tanta (3 or 4 days)

This is a spectacular route in the high mountains, only recommended for experienced hikers with the necessary equipment. The trek begins 9.5 kilometres beyond the old Cochas hacienda, heading towards Lake Huaylacancha. Near the bridge (4,250 metres), the trail meets the Inca road from Jauja, and after five kilometres of uphill walking, the first campsite is reached at Lake Acococha (4,600 metres). On the next day the Inca road is followed, although it is not easily distinguished along this section, and the dirt road to Tanta is crossed. Skirting Portachuelo Hill one reaches the pass of the same name, at an altitude of almost 4,800 metres. Almost the entire route, as far as Lake Mullococha, is downhill, passing the monumental Inca construction of "Escalerayoc". One can also visit the cave paintings of Cuchimachay. The scenery along most of this route is fairytale: Mount Pariakaka, the most important mountain god of the region, is seen in all its splendour and the many surrounding lakes take the hiker's breath away. 

The second night's camp is at Atarhuay (4,500 metres), above Lake Mullococha and less than two kilometres from the southern slopes of Mount Pariakaka. On the third day the route skirts the eastern shore of Mullococha, before passing Ocsha (leaving the Inca road) and skirting Lake Paucarcocha, finally reaching Tanta (4,278 metres) from the north. A short walk can be added to this itinerary the next day by hiking south to the Paccha waterfall. 

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